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| The Emporium's Rooftop Christmas Carnival |
Christmas began after Thanksgiving in San Francisco in the
'50's.
Designers and window decorators worked into the wee hours to create a
Christmas wonderland downtown. We savored our Thanksgiving turkey and afterwards,
relaxed with apple pie in the living room and planned our annual bus trip
downtown to see the decorations.
The early 1950s was a time when you could live "out
in the avenues" and leave your door unlocked. Children could play after
school outside, unsupervised. Of course you found out that you really were
supervised when you did something that was not allowed.... such as cross the
street or hit another child. We walked to grammar school each day. It was a
good time to be a child in San Francisco.
Christmas was a time to bring out the family ornaments and
decorations. It was a simple time when all ornaments had meaning and history.
There was the little glass bell that actually rang. It was from my
grandparents' era. There was the beautiful glass peacock with a tail that
clipped on a branch. To finish the tree we used aluminum garlands and cheezy
icicles. The lights, of course, were multi-colored. Nothing was color-coordinated
and nothing was designed by a professional. And our tree came from a nearby
lot. We carried it home. It was a real
tree on an X shaped wooden stand my father constructed.
We usually went downtown on a Saturday. We took the Muni bus
because that is what most people did. It took us through all sorts of
neighborhoods on the way. There were churches, Victorian homes, barbershops,
ethnic restaurants, and a few seedy places too. The trip was always interesting
for the quiet little girl who loved sitting by the window.
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| We walked but others rode the Cable Car to Market Street |
Once we made it to the brightly lighted downtown area we
walked down Powell, past Union Square, to Market Street. The flower stands with rows of bright bouquets
added color to the sidewalks. Everyone was dressed up. Women wore a dress coat,
gloves, and hat. Men wore ties, suits, and hats. Women clicked along the streets
in their high-heeled shoes. Men tipped their hats when meeting a woman.
Market Street was an exciting street with the Cable Car
turntable in front of Woolworths, streetcars running down Market and even private cars.
Often there were rabid evangelicals preaching loudly from the corner. Sometimes
a few street people begged for some change or mumbled to themselves. It was a quick crossing over to The Emporium.
This was a time when you could say the word Christmas, and
my Jewish friends equally enjoyed talking about Hanukkah. Downtown San Francisco was all decked out in its Christmas finery. The
Emporium department store always had fascinating moving displays in their
windows. We went window to window to ooh and aah over the decorations and the
dolls that skated and trains that ran in circles around the tree. But the magic
awaited those who took an elevator to the Emporium's rooftop. There we found a
Ferris wheel, a little train, and more Christmas cheer. I heard that the last Christmas carnival was
held in 1995, the Emporium’s 100th anniversary year and the year the store
closed.
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| City of Paris Christmas Tree |
We might stop by Woolworths for a little something (some
thread, a lipstick or a costume jewelry pin) and then head over to Macy's. We passed the
little shop where my mother bought her hats but didn't go in. This was all
about Christmas.
Macy's was always beautifully decorated inside and out. The
window displays, there too, had moving bears, dancers and more surprises for
those who took time to watch at each window. And we did.... it was worth it.
Inside, we looked up at the columns decorated with Christmas
balls and bows and up higher at the tall ceilings with garlands. Macy's had a restaurant (or was it Blum's) where we often treated ourselves to a turkey sandwich and chocolate milkshake.
But then it was across the street to see the most amazing
tree. The multi-story tree at the
City
of Paris was always a special destination.
Located in the open rotunda of
the department store, the 40-foot natural tree was a sight to behold. Decorated
in the traditional style, the tree had toys, glass balls, and garlands. We could
go up to different floors to get views of the tree from behind the railings. I always wondered how they got the tree into the store!
Maiden Lane at Christmas was not to be missed. This little
lane, reminiscent of a small European street was decorated. But our destination
was specific... it was the Grant Avenue floral shop of Podesta Baldocci which
is still in existence today. Podesta's had floor to ceiling decorations. From
gorgeous poinsettias to amazing white floral decorations, it was the most
creative, artistic stop on our tour and it smelled heavenly.
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| Podesta's as seen in the movie Vertigo |
One of our Christmas stops was
The
White House on Grant. It was a large department store that filled almost
the whole block. My best memories of The White House included the cute little elf, Happy Holly, and the contemporary graphics on the boxes... very chic!
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Happy Holly from
The White House Department Store |
After a long day downtown, we were tired and headed back toward
the bus stop. It was all uphill. But first, we passed through Union Square to
admire the tree there. Often there were carolers and choirs performing. A
street policeman directed traffic at the corner.
The sun was setting as we boarded the #2 Clement bus which
took us slowly back to the Richmond District. The bus was often crowded with
shoppers with full shopping bags, many of whom had to stand through the first
part of the journey. And the bus stopped at every single stop!
It was foggy out in the Richmond when we returned. We ran
across the street and down to our home quickly, warding off the chill. The thoughts
of Christmas to come and the thrill of the decor in downtown San Francisco
warmed my little girl heart.
