The Washington Side of the Gorge: Fort Cascades Trail

A nice place to wander to experience the mossy forest, learn about Columbia River fish and a little bit of Pacific Northwest history is the Fort Cascades Historic Site. This shady trail is located one mile downstream (west) of the Bonneville Dam and is reached from the Dam Access Road on Hamilton Island, off of Washington State Highway 14. Parking is free.

Cool, Mossy Fort Cascades Trail

Fort Cascades was an army fort built in 1855 to protect a portage road around the lower cascades rapids of the Columbia River.  The fort burned down in 1856 and the area was abandoned in 1861 and then flooded out in 1894. Pick up a brochure at the kiosk at the trailhead so you can follow the interpretive markers along the trail.

The 1.5 mile Fort Cascades Trail will take you past historic sites (don’t expect to see remains of buildings) where you can look for abandoned wheels and metal equipment among the beautiful mossy rocks, ferns, and woods. The trail eventually leads into the town of North Bonneville if you do not follow the trail looping back.

Remnants of the Portage Railroad

You'll catch some great views of the dam upstream and learn about fish hatcheries and the protection of fish in this area of the Columbia River.
 

Bonneville Dam

It is a lovely flat trail to take on a warm day because of the shade. Pets are allowed on leash. Map

Feast Portland: Exploring the Bounty of Oregon Before Feast Begins

All trails do lead to Feast, as they say, so we explored the culinary offerings of southern Oregon before the Feast Portland events. Along the way, we met some folks who would be cooking and exhibiting in Portland and others who invited us to enjoy some locally sourced, farm-fresh foods. Feast Portland designated the hashtag #trailstoPortland for all the food enthusiasts who were traveling in Oregon on their way to Feast.

The Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor

After landing at the Rogue Valley Medford International Airport (less than an hour's flight from Portland) we headed down I-5. Medford, Oregon, near the California border on the I-5 corridor, is known for the famous Harry and David’s gourmet gifts but on our southern Oregon "Trails to Feast" experience, I happened upon a little bit of undiscovered artisan food heaven in the Central Point area just off I-5. They even have a name for it—the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor.

To die for grilled blue and cheddar cheese from Rogue Valley Creamery

Ledger David hosted a tasting paired with Rogue Creamery cheeses.

It’s a stop that will leave you wanting to linger more in the area but if you only have an hour or two, you can benefit from the co-location of three highly regarded purveyors of gourmet delights—Rogue Creamery, Lillie Belle’s Chocolates, and Ledger David Cellars wines. Actually located in Central Point, part of the Medford metropolitan area, the three businesses share an unlikely location—next to the railroad tracks. But don’t let that deter you. The Artisan Corridor has award-winning treats in store. Read our full story on Wander With Wonder.

The Chateau at Oregon Caves National Monument 

At the soon to be renovated Chateau, we experienced the lodge and coffee shop as travelers in the 1930s might have. This picturesque six-story lodge blends into the forest with its bark-covered exterior. The building extends down into a canyon with a little waterfall and trout pond. The Chateau houses 23 guest rooms, a fine dining room overlooking the canyon, and a quaint 1930s era coffee shop.

The Chateau

We gathered in the Caves Café coffee shop for traditional breakfasts—French toast, eggs, and local sausage, hearty bowls of oatmeal and, of course, coffee. The “Eggs in a Cave” were popular with the eggs being cooked inside a “cave” of Texas toast.

Cave Eggs!

It was easy to want to relax for a while in this old-fashioned café with birch and maple counters and knotty-pine paneling. But, the hearty breakfasts were to prepare us for the much-anticipated entry into the cave, just steps away from the Chateau.  Read our Oregon Caves story on Wander With Wonder.

The Wild Coast Beckons 

Since we were visiting the Oregon Caves, the best way to get to the coast was to take scenic Hwy 199 which dipped into California and gave us a taste of the magnificent redwoods at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. If you continued on, you’d end up in Crescent City, California. Instead, we turned north on Highway 101 to explore the southern Oregon coast.

Once we reached the coast we enjoyed a marvelous lunch and then traveled north to Port Orford. We were right along the coast with viewpoints dotting the road. Oregon legislators gave us all a wonderful gift in 1967. The Oregon Beach Act was a piece of landmark legislation in Oregon establishing public ownership of land along the Oregon Coast from the water up to sixteen vertical feet above the low tide mark. This means that people have access and that views are not marred by hotels and developments.

The views and hiking opportunities kept us busy for the afternoon and then that evening we had another marvelous dinner, watched a sunset from the deck of the restaurant, and settled into private luxe cabins in the woods for the night. Read about our wild coast experience on Wander With Wonder.

Experiencing Feast Portland

Once our foodie and fun explorations of southern Oregon were over, it was time to get serious about food. We had arrived in Portland, Oregon, for Feast Portland 2018 and soon it was time to delve into the latest food products from Oregon and beyond, sip a little wine and go to an amazing Feast Portland dinner event.

Read about our Feast Portland 2018 experience on Real Food Traveler. Save the date for year eight of Bon Appétit Presents Feast Portland, September 12-15, 2019. You’ll have plenty of choices if you log on quickly for tickets. If you procrastinate, you can still have fun with the larger tasting events.

Feast On!

Portland’s Homeless: The Effect on Tourism

Walkers from across the United States and Canada
enjoyed a marked trail through downtown Portland
(or did they?)

It was a wonderful sunny morning. In town were several hundred visitors on their last day of a walking convention. They had walked in the scenic areas of Bend, Lincoln City, Salem and Vancouver, WA. This Sunday was the last walking event for most of them before they left for their homes across the United States and Canada.

Organizers had mapped out routes taking the recreational walkers to major points of interest in Portland. They routed the 12K walkers through downtown to the Rose Garden and back through Old Town. The shorter route, 6K, just routed walkers through The Pearl and Old Town (mostly Old Town). 

The route was map guided and marked with arrows. Walkers were on their own to walk at their preferred pace and see the sights. Organizers did their best to provide walkers with a positive experience. They gave them a list of points of interest. It was well organized. I know because I walked the 6K myself.

But what remained with many of these visitors, especially the 6K walkers, were visions of the homeless population of Portland, the littered streets and the stench. Sunday morning comes after Saturday night. Revelers left remnants of their late night snacks on the streets. The homeless were bedded down on corners and in doorways. Many had their worldly possessions with them in shopping carts, plastic bags and crates. It was early morning so they were still trying to sleep. It was a mess. It was sad. And it didn’t smell very good.

Some homeless are creative in the way they
request money.
This man makes small sculptures out of cans. 

As a local, I was well aware of the issue of homelessness in Portland. I knew that there were shelters, transitional programs and many resources to help. I also knew that these services were overloaded and many homeless came to Portland in the warmer months because the city was known as tolerant and sometimes welcoming to those with social problems. The seasonal homeless are called “travelers.” My walking friends are called “tourists.”

As we walked… past the iconic Voodoo Donuts, past the Lan Su Chinese Gardens, shouting erupted. Two women were arguing. Their profanity echoed in the empty streets.

One woman from Virginia walked alone. She was approached by a panhandler. He was aggressive and she, a retired Air Force Officer, was intimidated. The walk left her with an unsettled feeling.

On went the walk route toward the historic train station, passing the Greyhound Station where many more disheveled people loitered in the sun.

Portland has beautiful architecture to enjoy.

This wasn’t the first time I had walked in central Portland early in the morning. But it was the first time I was hit so hard by homelessness. I saw things through the eyes of visitors… from small Midwest towns, large eastern cities and pristine mountain villages. They felt that this was the worst they had seen in their travels. All towns and cities have social problems. But are Portland’s the worst?

I thought of how Portland’s social problems must impact tourism. Certainly tourists want to go to Powell’s Bookstore, walk along the waterfront, visit the Lan Su Chinese Garden and take home a coveted pink box of Voodoo Donuts. For them, there is no escaping visions of the homeless. There is no avoiding being asked for money by panhandlers. Not unless you skip Portland!

Summer attracts out of town travelers with no funds who add to the
homeless population.

Do I have the answer? Certainly not. But I now know that street issues can do nothing good for tourism. And, apparently, all the resources in place now are not making a visible impact. 

The walkers who stepped over garbage and felt twinges of compassion as they passed the homeless men and women huddled in their sleeping bags that beautiful Sunday morning were left with a rather haunting memory of Portland.

Here is what the City of Portland is doing for the homeless. They see the problem. But are their interventions soon enough?

More Information
Oregonian Special Report: Homeless Crisis

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Washougal Washington: Walk, bike and picnic on the banks of the Columbia River

On a busy holiday weekend you'd think a riverside beach would be crowded with families. But not so at Cottonwood Beach on the Washington side of the Columbia River. With large grassy areas, a sandy beach and replica Chinookian canoes, this scenic area provides a pleasant riparian setting for visitors. Depending on the river level, there will be more, or less, beach to enjoy.

This is a Lewis and Clark site. On March 31, 1806, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark established a camp at Cottonwood Beach while they secured provisions for the return trip through the Columbia River Gorge and points east. They remained at Cottonwood Beach for six days, which is the longest period of time the Corps of Discovery camped at any site in Clark County. 

To mark the historical significance of this location, you'll see a longhouse structure at the entrance to the trail (up on the dike from the parking lot). Within the longhouse you'll find information on the Lewis and Clark expedition and the Native peoples that once lived there. This area is now called the Captain William Clark Park.

Bikers and walkers frequent the Columbia River Dike Trail which separates the parking area from the beach. The trail connects the park to downtown Washougal through a pedestrian tunnel as well as Steamboat Landing Park. The pedestrian tunnel will take you to the parking lot at the Pendleton Woolen Mills.  If you walk east on the trail you'll reach the Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife Refuge. The trail measures three miles.

On the holiday when we walked and waded at the beach, we heard other walkers talk about seeing eagles in the area. Fishermen spent the day at Steamboat Landing and children played in the replica canoes at Cottonwood Beach.  It's not crowded in this area east of Vancouver, Washington. In fact, it would be an ideal place for bird watching.

Getting to Captain William Clark Park at Cottonwood Beach
An easy place to park is at Steamboat Landing at the intersection of SR 14 and 15th Street. You can walk the dike to the park. Or drive farther east and park at the Cottonwood Beach parking lot 

More Information
Camas and Washougal Visitors Information Trail and Parking Map

Photography copyright: Elizabeth R. Rose

Touring Santa Fe: Guided and mapped tours for the walker and the driver

Todos Santos Chocolatier in Downtown Santa Fe
Photo Copyright: Elizabeth R Rose

My favorite way to see Santa Fe is on foot. Travelers to Santa Fe are strapping on their walking shoes and hitting the streets to experience the cuisine, culture and charm of this southwestern city. Listed below is a sampling of Santa Fe’s dedicated walking tours highlighting the best of this pedestrian-friendly destination: 

Chocolate Lover’s Odyssey

For visitors with a sweet tooth, the Santa Fe Chocolate Trail offers an array of edible delights, featuring four chocolate shops equipped with dark chocolate truffles, fudge, bon bons, Mayan chocolate elixirs and more. Travelers can follow the trail as it winds through the heart of historic Santa Fe, showcasing the city's rich history with cacao. Artisanal chocolate shops on the trail include The Chocolate Smith, Todos Santos, Kakawa Chocolate House and CG Higgins Confections and more. Visit www.santafe.org for more information.

Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail

New Mexico holds the honor as the green chile capital of the world – and chiles aren’t just an ingredient in this city, but a way of life. The green chile cheeseburger has been a staple on menus around the state since the middle of the last century and with the vast amount of restaurants offering this beloved dish, visitors can follow the state’s map to find all of the outstanding green chile cheeseburger restaurants, cafes, drive-ins and joints. Visit www.newmexico.org/green-chile-cheeseburger for more information.

Coffee Lover's Tour

Visitors and locals alike can take a tour of Santa Fe’s top cafes and roasting houses and find plenty of places to sit back, relax and enjoy a cup of Joe. Travelers who participate will have the opportunity to chat with local baristas and taste their way through several different styles and kinds of espresso and coffee, with great views for people-watching along the way. Visit www.santafe.org for more information.

New Deal Art Legacy Tour

When the Great Depression took place in the 1930s, New Mexico was able to stay afloat, thanks largely to President Franklin D. Roosevelt's New Deal, which employed at least 167 New Mexico artists who produced more than 1,000 creative works across the state. Improvements were made to courthouses, city halls, libraries and schools, among others. The Legacy Tour allows visitors to take a deeper look into the aftermath of the New Deal and its effect on New Mexico and Santa Fe specifically. Visit www.santafe.org for more information.

Literary Landmarks Tour

In the early 1900s, Santa Fe was home to a literary colony inspired by the natural landscape and famous for producing an array of books, essays and poems.  Through this Santa Fe tour, visitors can experience the homes of these writers and learn more about the legacy of Santa Fe’s golden literary era. Visit www.santafe.org for additional information.

New Mexico Food Tours

Foodies can get the most of Santa Fe’s culinary scene with New Mexico Food Tours, which offer walking food tours throughout the heart of historic downtown Santa Fe. Demonstrations, samples and stories make these tours an ideal way to explore one of the Southwest’s greatest destinations. Advance purchase is required and tickets start around $65. Visit www.santafeschoolofcooking.com and www.foodtournewmexico.com  for additional information,

Santa Fe Tour Guides

For travelers seeking to get the most out of their stay, it helps to get professional advice from the tour operators of Santa Fe Tour Guides. The 22 professional tour operators specialize in the field of cultural tourism throughout Northern New Mexico and have spent years learning and sharing the many ins and outs of Santa Fe and the Southwest. Some of the group’s most popular areas of exploration include the land of O’Keeffe, the ghosts of Santa Fe, the Rocky Mountain outdoors surrounding the city and the area’s distinctive history. Visit www.santafetourguides.org for more information.

Please visit www.santafe.org for additional information on packages, saving specials and all Santa Fe has to offer visitors.

Information courtesy: Santa Fe CVB

Visiting Yachats Oregon: Local Trails

View from the 804 Trail in the morning.

Yachats, on Oregon's Central Coast, is so much more than a quaint ocean side village. Stay awhile and venture out on the trails and you will soon see why Yachats is an excellent example of the diversity of Oregon Coast natural habitats. From amazing cliffs with crashing waves to woodsy hikes where you can see ancient Sitka spruce, trails will bring you to some surprising areas not far from your Yachats accommodations.

Historic 804 Trail: If you are staying at an ocean side hotel such as The Adobe or The Fireside Inn, you'll be right on the historic 804 Trail along the cliffs. This trail was most likely a footpath for the native people who lived in the area. Later it was known as County Road 804. This included a seven mile stretch of beach between Yachats and Waldport accessible only at low tide. It was the settler's route between the Yachats River valley and Waldport's Alsea Bay. This was used until the 1930's and the advent of Hwy 101. Now it is one of the most scenic walks you can enjoy in the Yachats area.

Access the 804 Trail from the sandy beach at the north end of Yachats or Smelt Sands State Park and Yachats State Park to the south. Or just go behind one of those ocean view motels and join the walkers. Bring your camera. And, dogs are allowed.

Amanda Trail: Until recently there was not much being said about the removal of the Native peoples from this coastal ares so that settlement could take place. The people of Yachats have done much to raise awareness of this tragedy. Near the cemetery (King St) there is an informational board that explains the history of settlement and the effect on the Native peoples.

This trail is dedicated in memory of Amanda, a blind Coos woman who suffered injustices during the 1860's reservation era. This trail runs from a trailhead on Yachats Ocean Road, south to the Amanda Statue. If you continue south you'll reach the summit of Cape Perpetua. This is a strenuous hike so you'll need to wear your hiking gear and carry your 10 essentials. History of the Amanda Trail. Dogs are permitted.

Grandmother Spruce in the nature preserve

Ya'Xaik Trail: This is a lovely trail that begins at the east end of Diversity Lane (apartment complex just off Hwy 101) and will take you through some lovely second growth forest. Part of the trail goes through The Gerdemann's Botanic Preserve public trail. There you can see a "Grandmother Spruce" and large leaf Rhododendrons. It is a beautiful place with a trickling creek running through it.

Although much has been done to make this trail easy to traverse, it still can be slippery. It does take you uphill before going down back to the street, so hiking boots and a stick are helpful. Dogs are not allowed in the Botanic Preserve.

You might guess that this trail is also dedicated to the Native people that once inhabited the area. Shell middens mark their use of the coast as a source of food and many of the local trails were used for seasonal movement and trade. More on this beautiful trail.

Yachats Trail Brochure and Map
Yachats Coastal Gems Walking Club

Montrail Fluid Balance Shoes - For all weather walking, travel and hiking

So what's to do when you find a great trail shoe, it lasts all summer during your travels, your walks and your hiking, and the weather turns rainy? The mesh on my Montrail Fluid Balance shoes was not going to keep the water and mud out. But the fit was great so I wanted another pair that would make my feet feel good even after a 10 or 11k walk.

So I was pleased to see that Montrail offered a waterproof version called the Bajada Outdry Trail Runner. This shoe has OutDry brand waterproofing. I found that Columbia Sportswear actually owns OutDry and uses the technology in many of their products.

So I look forward to dry feet while sloshing down the trails of the Pacific Northwest and walking the streets during events such as the Portland Christmas Ships Walk.

Exerstrider Walking Poles: Packable, affordable and ideal for travel walking and hiking

Exerstrider Walking Poles
Exerstrider Walking Poles are very reasonably priced and effective for your
hiking, walking or exercise program.

Here's a description of the technique used with the poles.
For more information on the various styles of poles, pricing and to purchase
accessories, click here.
Click  for More information on Exerstrider Walking Poles and to Purchase Poles and Accessories

Back to the Future: Exploring Los Gatos California with the South Bay Striders

You can never go back, they say. Everything changes and nothing will be as you remembered. But that doesn't stop travelers from going to class reunions, military unit reunions and touring their childhood home towns. Is it all reminiscing or can the journey to the past be much more?

The Invitation: 25th Anniversary Reunion
I don't go to class reunions but this reunion piqued my interest. 25 years ago I founded a very special walking club in Santa Clara County, California... The South Bay Striders. Our first walk was in the quaint, historic town of Los Gatos. Founding member, Helen, researched all the lovely Victorian homes and wrote up a turn by turn description for this historic walk.

I once lived in San Jose and loved going to Los Gatos to walk that six mile historic walk route and then reward myself by sitting in a sidewalk cafe thinking about how much fun our walking sport, called volksmarching, was in Europe. After living in Europe for three years, I had some trouble adjusting to the strip malls and fast food joints of San Jose and loved getting away to Los Gatos which reminded me of a European village. Walking helped me adjust to a new community, gave me and my family some fun outings, and enabled me to make new friends. The club provided interesting walks and a great social outlet.

So when I received the invitation to the 25th Anniversary celebration, I thought it would be a great way to see Helen again, reconnect with the people who walked with me on those trails many years ago and explore the post-earthquake (1989 Loma Prieta) Los Gatos. Although I am not much for reminiscing, I wanted to experience the weekend with friends whom I had met as we formed the non-profit walking club. And, I was curious about how the area had changed.

High Tech Surprises 
I flew in to SJC, San Jose's Mineta Airport, and was amazed by the size and high-tech feel of the terminal. Oh yes, this was now the center of Silicon Valley, not the sleepy agricultural town of San Jose!

My friends, Ken and Helen, met me (they hadn't changed a bit) and we were off through San Jose. I no longer recognized the terrain as new shopping centers had sprung up. Soon we were on Hwy 17 and then I recognized the trees, the green highway signs and knew which exit to take to downtown Los Gatos.

We drove slowly down the main street of Los Gatos so we could  comment on what was new and what was old.  I looked forward to exploring the boutiques and stores lining the streets. We passed an enormous electronics store selling iPhones in a stark contemporary setting, slightly out of place for this street full of frou-frou decorator stores and upscale boutiques.

Some things were the same and some were different, but I have to say that the changes were enticing. The town had kept the upscale boutique type look but the fashions were all current. There were no big box stores that I could see.  People strolled the sidewalks just as they did 25 years ago and it was clearly a draw for young professionals and their trendily dressed offspring.

On to the New
I was chomping at the bit to explore the treasures of this little town but first, a well-needed rest. I could have stayed at the Los Gatos Garden Inn, which is where we stayed in the "old days." It didn't look like it had changed much. But enough of trying to re-live the past. I was excited about today.

I opted for a new, beautiful Tuscan-style hotel just across from the Los Gatos High School. Hotel Los Gatos & Spa was just down the street from the main shopping and dining areas and was not far from where our celebratory walk event would take place the next day.

I enjoyed the warm Mediterranean decor, comfortable suite and excellent service. I was glad to experience the new hotel in Los Gatos and leave my memories behind. I dined in the adjacent restaurant, Dio Deka that night. The cuisine was excellent.

25 years prior, we thought dining at The Chart House in a renovated Victorian (previously a funeral home) was the best place to go to celebrate special occasions and it was... then. I noticed  that the restaurant had been taken over by another. Things do change and evolve as time goes by.  After enjoying the lamb dinner at Dio Deka, I had to say that things had evolved well in Los Gatos and, after 25 years, my tastes had become more discriminating.

Walking Los GatosThe next day I awoke to mist hanging in the Santa Cruz Mountains. It was a beautiful sight. The air smelled of redwood trees and the rain that had washed the foothill town over the night.

I met my friends at "Never Never Land," a small cabin used by the Boy Scouts on a piece of property behind Los Gatos High School. It hadn't changed a bit! Some of the club members had aged, but so had I!. The walking event was held in the same manner as we held it 25 years ago. Register, sign a waiver and go out to follow a marked trail.

After a brief session of reminiscing and looking at some old photos, we chose the 10K trail and, accompanied by the original planner of the event, strode out down memory lane. Or, in my case, on a trail of discovery.

As we walked, we noticed that elegant Victorian homes, once brought to their knees, shaken and broken by the Loma Prieta quake, were now freshly painted and new looking. Homes, still historic with the tell-tale Los Gatos cat bell plaque beside the door, were remodeled and beautiful.

We found the route to be a new experience. We quickly became tourists in what once was a familiar town, enjoying the gorgeous homes and quaint shops. Only occasionally lapsing back to what used to be, we found ourselves thoroughly enjoying the sunny fall day, admiring the depth of color in the fall leaves and stopping for lunch at a Mexican restaurant.

Our day became more of an exploration of a lovely town and less a walk down memory lane. As a travel writer, I found so much material for future articles. I decided that Los Gatos was a destination for those wanting to explore this part of California, for shoppers and discriminating diners.  There was so much to think about and explore that memories remained faded and new memories were made.

Reunions Are Not Just About the Past 
What I discovered that weekend was that my original walking club friends were still great people to be with. As I had grown and changed careers, so had they. They were vibrant, interesting people and our talk of the past soon changed to the current.

The reunion was just a vehicle to get me back to California to explore Los Gatos and to have friends to enjoy the experience with.

More Information
Hotel Los Gatos and Spa
Exploring Los Gatos California
South Bay Striders Walking Club
American Volkssport Association
Baby Boomers Travels Down Memory Lane