Journey to Remote Masset British Columbia: Haida art, Culture and Natural Beauty

Entrance to Masset (Massett)

Masset (Massett) is a village in Haida Gwaii (formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands) way up north in British Columbia, Canada. Historic Masset, a living Haida village, has beautiful totems and long houses, native artists and galleries.

Masset is a desired destination for the natural beauty, the fishing and the Haida art and culture. It is located on the northern coast of Graham Island and can be reached by a scenic 1.5-hour car ride from Skidegate. It is also accessible via floatplane and small commercial planes. Popular with sports fishermen the wilderness town of Masset is a place you’ll encounter eagles waiting for returning fishing boats. As you travel, you will experiences stretches of highway with only water and forest views. It is truly a place to get away from it all.

Arrive in Masset via floatplane, small commercial plane or car

Traveling to Masset from Queen Charlotte City and Skidegate

Make sure you have adequate gasoline for your trip. We encountered several closed gas stations along the way. You can gas up at the Co-op in Skidegate.

We drove the Yellowhead Highway from Skidegate through some of the most scenic and sparsely inhabited areas of the islands. The water you will see is Hecate Straits. Along the way the beautiful rocky beaches, eagles and deer kept us busy sight-seeing.

Masset is the true end of the Yellowhead Highway, the northernmost point.

Artists of Tlell
There are some worthwhile stops on your way to Masset. Once you reach the village of Tlell, watch for signs to galleries and artists. The town, and the talent, is well worth the stop. Many enjoy the eclectic Crystal Cabin that represents local artists, including, but not limited to Native artists. Typical of island businesses, when we stopped by, the gallery owner had gone to the local coffee shop for a long break.

However, just down the road we pulled in to a wood carving shop with a “open” sign. This was a true backwoods find.  Ernie Burnett is an excellent wood carver who uses local salvaged red and yellow cedar for hand carved boxes, wall plaques, paddles and even cribbage boards. His work is meticulous and he uses both European and Native designs. (Phone: 250 557-4531)

Artist, Ernie Burnett carves beautiful cedar boxes

Ernie was exposed to wood carving and wood working by his father and grandfather. His Father, Ernie Sr., was a well-known woodcarver. His wood carving heritage goes back to England and this is evident in some of his designs. What I found most attractive were his carefully hewn boxes.

Since he uses found wood, there will be interesting colors and grains in his work. A visit to Ernie’s wood carving shop is a must-do when traveling the highway to Masset.

Tlell is known for the Edge of the World Music Festival and Tlell Fall Fair. It is mid-island and has some great hiking trails and scenic rocky beaches. There are some B&B's in the area.

Exploring Masset
Once we reached Masset, we visited the Co-op which is a great well-stocked grocery store (it has a rest room). We then traveled through the streets were marked in the Haida language on canoe shaped signs. The Haida people are friendly and helped us with directions and recommendations. You'll get a sense of Haida life as you travel slowly through the streets. At one home a man was sitting outside tending drying strips of salmon.

One special stop that you must take as you travel through Old Masset admiring the beautiful totem poles, is Sarah’s Haida Arts and Jewelry. While Sarah is not Haida, her shop is full of carefully selected Haida jewelry, cedar baskets and hats, books on local art and collectible carvings.

Sarah's Haida Arts is located in a longhouse.

Sarah is highly knowledgeable about Haida art and artists. She purchases from the locals in town and you will be ensured of authenticity when you purchase from her. She also has a great selection of books about the local art, history and culture. She is located at 387 Eagle Road and her phone is 250.626.5560. Her shop is in a scenic long house with beautiful totem in front.

Sarah has a wonderful selection of Haida arts and crafts.

If you are hungry after your journey, consider stopping in town for a sandwich. We found that restaurants come and go. We watched for where the locals dined and had a great hamburger. The locals can advise you on where to go… just ask.

If you decide to stay in Masset, there are fishing lodges that may have rooms. It is a fairly remote area so having a reservation ahead is recommended. There is a Vistors Center as you enter town. Places to stay in Masset.

This journey is an excellent day trip from Sandspit (which has an airport). You’ll cross to Graham Island by a quick 25 minute ferry ride to Skidegate and then turn right on the Yellowhead Highway.

Flying to Masset

From Vancouver B.C. you can fly direct to Masset's Municipal Airport (ZMT) with Pacific Coastal Airlines 1-800-663-2872. Located 3km from the village center. Taxi service and rental car pick-ups are available at the airport. Masset also features twice daily floatplane service to Prince Rupert with Inland Air  250-626-3225

More Information

Visiting Masset
Places to see Authentic Totem Poles
Map of Haida Gwaii

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Hope, B.C.: Pet-friendly, reasonable and scenic

Hope is known for its wood carvings

Hope, British Columbia is considered a gateway to some of B.C.'s most scenic destinations. The town is located only 45 minutes over the border north of the United States.  Hope is a great place for a vacation in itself, especially if you have a dog traveling with you.

Hope is surrounded by beautiful mountains and some of the accommodations overlook the confluence of the Fraser and Coquihalla rivers.

As you wander with your dog through the parks and along the sidewalks of Hope, you'll see the iconic chainsaw carvings that Hope is known for.  The carvings all began when some of the large trees began to die due to disease in the early '90's. Pete Ryan, the woodcarver, was instrumental in this effort. You'll see bears, a tribute to a police dog and so much more amongst the beautiful carvings.

There are motels that accept dogs. One excellent place to stay is the Swiss Chalets Motel, with little cabins dotted throughout the grounds. The pet charge is $10 per night. The owner is attentive and helpful. We were directed to a two-bedroom cottage with private picnic area and lawn. Cinnamon, the blogging hound, was ecstatic!

Of course the rooms and furniture were dated but there was evidence of renovations being done. Our cabin with two enclosed bedrooms, living room and kitchenette was under $100 per night. The accommodations were clean and, even though some of the units are close to the road, we weren't bothered as we slept.

As you leave Hope, be sure and drive the scenic Frasier Canyon with its seven mountain tunnels. Yes, Hope is a crossroads for B.C. travelers, but spending a few days there would make for a great mini-vacation.

More Information
Hope, British Columbia Travel Information

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Fall in Haida Gwaii, Canada

It's an interesting time on Moresby Island. It's only mid-September. Yet, inns and fishing services are closing. Is it a secret to the world that it is warm here, people are wearing shorts and there are still Coho and Spring Salmon to be caught?

In the woods the mushroom hunters eagerly seek those yellow gold Chanterelles. Pounds of them are sold to the mushroom buyers destined for fine restaurants near and far. Those of us who are lucky enough to be here in this transitional season have them with our dinner.

The Eagles have headed away from the rocky beaches and gather at rivers where fish are going upstream to spawn. It is an eagle free-for-all after a heavy rain as the fish begin their arduous journey. In between rains you can see schools of Pink Salmon circling in the bays and under docks awaiting the start of their journey.

The BC Ferry schedules for travelers to and from the mainland are reduced. Once school is in session, there are fewer families on holiday to be transported.

Meanwhile for those fortunate enough to be in Haida Gwaii during this beautiful time will be surprised by the green gardens, abundant vegetables and great bird watching. By day you can bike the flat roads, go kayaking or enjoy a hike.  By evening you can relish and photograph the beautiful sunsets.

For those coming to Sandspit, you can easily find a room at this time of year. If you enjoy peace and quiet broken only by the lapping of the incoming tide, this will make for an ideal vacation.

Haida Gwaii Visitors Information

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Traveling Canada's Yellowhead Highway: Northern British Columbia

Exchamsiks River (copyright Elizabeth R. Rose)

Canada's Yellowhead Highway, Highway 16 in northern B.C., takes you through some scenic and sparsely populated areas. At every bend you'll find surprises such as waterfalls, rushing rivers, high gorge bridges and mountain views. 

You may see bear or moose and most certainly will see deer as you travel. For travelers through British Columbia from the United States, the Yellowhead can be picked up as you travel into northern B.C.

Yellowhead Highway Highlight: Exchamsiks River Provincial Park
As you travel along  the highway 56 km west of Terrace, following the Skeena River, you'll cross a bridge. At that point you are at the convergence with the Examsiks River. The sight of the Exchamsiks River will entrance you. 

The day we crossed that bridge there was mist in the mountains and the river was a soft green. 

If you love scenery like this, you'll want to consider the Exchamsiks River Provincial Park for a stop. It is just off the highway.  It is ideal for travelers between Terrace and Prince Rupert.

There is a concrete boat ramp, short hiking trails and day picnic spots. In season you can fish. There are some simple facilities. But the draw is the beauty of the river and the Sitka Spruce forest. 

The day-use areas are open May 15 to September 30. During the summer, there may be biting insects so bring repellent. 

More Information
Park Website
Location Map

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography
Enjoy more Travel Photography

Discovering Gray Bay: A Haida Gwaii beach adventure

Fisherman's cabin in remote Moresby Island

While vacationing in Sandspit on Moresby Island, you’ll enjoy rocky beaches, tide pools and daily sightings of eagles nesting, flying or feeding.

But let’s say you want to explore another aspect of the island. Within less than an hour’s drive you can adventure through beautiful green forest via a logging road, explore rocky bays and then come to a lovely sandy beach. This is Gray Bay, a place where you can swim, picnic and camp. It’s a remote park, an area preserved due to its natural beauty.

The beauty of the Copper River.

Getting to Gray Bay
If you are in Sandspit, drive down School Road to Copper Bay Road which will lead you to the logging roads that take you to Gray Bay via Copper Bay. Once you reach the unpaved section of the road it is 21 kilometers to the bay. Be sure and have sufficient gas for the trip. Also, since the road is gravel and mud, don’t go during a downpour. Another bit of advice… be sure and bring bug repellent.

There is a 40 kilometer loop that will include this area but I found the trip to Gray Bay to be a short little trip for a picnic and walk on the beach if you just take the logging roads in this area.

Enjoy the Scenery

Copper Bay

Along the way, you’ll see interesting ramshackle fishermen’s cabins and remote homes of some Haida, especially along the rivers and inlets. A real treat is the part of the road that follows along the amazingly beautiful Copper River as it winds through the green forest. Be prepared, also, to see logged areas and watch for trucks as this is an active logging area.

From mid-September on, fishermen flock to the mouth of the Copper River to fish for Coho Salmon. Interestingly, the familiar Copper River Salmon are not from here, but from the Copper River in Alaska.

The beautiful forests you will see are alder, giant spruce and hemlock. On the forest floor you’ll find large furs and mossy growth on logs that have fallen after the strong winds of winter. In the woods are deer and bear.

Watch carefully for signs that will point you to the bays and, finally, the Provincial protected area. You’ll find pull outs with beautifully made log picnic tables. Follow the little paths through the short wooded area to the beach. Gray Bay is a crescent shaped gray sandy beach. Locals will tell you that in the summer the beach warms the water so it is actually a very pleasant swimming area.

Enjoy the sandy beach of Gray Bay at low tide

There are some interesting hiking trails. Not far from Gray Bay is the Secret Cove Trail and another trail starts from the south end of Gray Bay and leads to Cumshewa Head.

You can camp here but it is best to be an experienced camper who can handle the lack of amenities and the presence of bears.

More Information
Parks and Trails: Gray Bay
Moresby Island Camp Grounds
A Dog's Perspective of the trip to Gray Bay

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Eagles Galore in Haida Gwaii, British Columbia (photos)

Eagle picking up fish from the beach in Sandspit.

When visiting Alaska and Canada you’ll be amazed at the number of eagles you will see. These magnificent birds are found where there are large bodies of open water and tall trees for nesting and overlooking the beaches and water. 

We recently saw as many as 20 eagles feeding together on the beach at Sandspit in British Columbia’s Haida Gwaii.

Eagles feed at low tide and watched for offerings from the fishing boats and beachside homes. They are primarily fish eaters.

According to an article on Wikipedia, The Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus; hali = salt, aeetus = eagle, leuco = white, cephalis = head) is a bird of prey found in North America. A sea eagle, it has two known sub-species and forms a species pair with the White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla). Its range includes most of Canada and Alaska, all of the contiguous United States, and northern Mexico. It is found near large bodies of open water with an abundant food supply and old-growth trees for nesting.

Eagle Nest

Eagles build the largest nest of any North American bird and will mate and nest at age 4-5 years of age. You’ll see young with spotted brown feathers and dark beaks. The older they are, the more yellow their beaks.

Young eagles at low tide

They are wary of people and will take flight if you get too close, but with a simple telephoto lens you can get some great photos!

Eagles and eagle feathers, important in many cultures, are protected.

Books on Eagles

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Things to consider when crossing the border from the U.S. into Canada

It's been awhile since I had the fortune to travel  to Canada so I had to do a little bit of research about crossing the border into Canada via car. Complicating the issue is that I am taking my dog. So that is a separate area to research. You'd think that this border crossing would be easy. Canada and the U.S. are friendly nations. But if you don't study up, here are some things you may not know:

1. You will need your current passport. Canada does accept other forms of identification as follows: If you are a U.S. citizen, ensure you carry proof of citizenship such as a passport, birth certificate, a certificate of citizenship or naturalization, a U.S. Permanent Resident Card, or a Certificate of Indian Status along with photo identification.

2. If you have liquor or tobacco products, you will be limited as to what you bring in. For example, you can bring in two bottles of wine but not more.  So much for gifting very many people with some great Oregon Pinot Noir!

3. Within reason, you can bring in quite a bit of spending money. Well, under $10,000.

4. It is wise to declare items you are transporting into Canada so there is a record when you exit the country. This makes things clearer and helps avoid paying duty.

5. Be sure and read up about prohibited goods. Much of the regulations are to protect Canada against agricultural insects and pests. In addition, you cannot bring firearms, fireworks or certain types of ammunition into Canada. I found that I could not bring any dog food in that might have beef products in it. And, I'd better have the packaging that states that.  Be prepared to declare any food or plant material that you might be bringing in. Read up on the rules.

6. As far as my dog, I found that I needed to have a carefully worded rabies certificate for her. Here's more about documentation for pets. 

More Information
You may have more questions about crossing the border into Canada. The best website is the Canadian government border services agency site. About.com's Canadian Travel writer has an article of advice for border crossing.