Argillite carvings: Authentic Haida art collectibles from British Columbia

I found out about Argillite while traveling
in beautiful Haida Gwaii

Carvings and carved jewelry made of Argillite is as authentic as you can get when it comes to collectibles from the land of the Haida people. The mine where this slate-like rock is found is owned by Haida, worked by the Haida and the Argillite is used only by Haida artisans. It is in a remote location in Haida Gwaii and not easily found.

But the beautiful carvings the Haida produce can be found in the gift shop on BC Ferries and in Haida Gwaii villages such as Skidegate and Masset.

If you want a piece of jewelry or memento from Haida Gwaii, consider a beautiful Argillite piece. Argillite is actually grey-green but when worked and polished becomes the beautiful black color that it is known for. Argillite carving became popular after the fur trade in the area diminished. The Haida wanted to trade with the Europeans and pipes were the first carved item made for trade. Around 1900 Argillite was shipped to Victoria for manufacturing but today the Haida have a monopoly on use of the argillite. This art form has been prized since the Haida first began carving it to sell to sailors around 1800.

Raven catches the light

When you look at Argillite pieces you will see a combination of European designs and Haida designs. Just like with Navajo sand paintings available for sale to tourists, the ceremonial designs are modified so that purchasers will have beautiful pieces but not those with cultural significance.

A great place to see Argillite pieces is at the Haida Heritage Center in Skidegate. There are also contemporary pieces for sale in the gift shop.

It is always best to buy closest to the source. Ideally you will encounter a carver when you visit Haida Gwaii. But if that is not possible, there are some good galleries and shops in places like Masset, BC where the owners know the artists and can guarantee authenticity.

One special stop that you must take as you travel through Old Masset admiring the beautiful totem poles, is Sarah’s Haida Arts and Jewelry. While Sarah is not Haida, her shop is full of carefully selected Haida jewelry (both silver and Argillite), cedar baskets and hats, books on local art and collectible carvings.

More Information
Book: "Argillite: Art of the Haida" by Wilson and Drew

Purchase Argillite Jewelry Online

Journey to Remote Masset British Columbia: Haida art, Culture and Natural Beauty

Entrance to Masset (Massett)

Masset (Massett) is a village in Haida Gwaii (formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands) way up north in British Columbia, Canada. Historic Masset, a living Haida village, has beautiful totems and long houses, native artists and galleries.

Masset is a desired destination for the natural beauty, the fishing and the Haida art and culture. It is located on the northern coast of Graham Island and can be reached by a scenic 1.5-hour car ride from Skidegate. It is also accessible via floatplane and small commercial planes. Popular with sports fishermen the wilderness town of Masset is a place you’ll encounter eagles waiting for returning fishing boats. As you travel, you will experiences stretches of highway with only water and forest views. It is truly a place to get away from it all.

Arrive in Masset via floatplane, small commercial plane or car

Traveling to Masset from Queen Charlotte City and Skidegate

Make sure you have adequate gasoline for your trip. We encountered several closed gas stations along the way. You can gas up at the Co-op in Skidegate.

We drove the Yellowhead Highway from Skidegate through some of the most scenic and sparsely inhabited areas of the islands. The water you will see is Hecate Straits. Along the way the beautiful rocky beaches, eagles and deer kept us busy sight-seeing.

Masset is the true end of the Yellowhead Highway, the northernmost point.

Artists of Tlell
There are some worthwhile stops on your way to Masset. Once you reach the village of Tlell, watch for signs to galleries and artists. The town, and the talent, is well worth the stop. Many enjoy the eclectic Crystal Cabin that represents local artists, including, but not limited to Native artists. Typical of island businesses, when we stopped by, the gallery owner had gone to the local coffee shop for a long break.

However, just down the road we pulled in to a wood carving shop with a “open” sign. This was a true backwoods find.  Ernie Burnett is an excellent wood carver who uses local salvaged red and yellow cedar for hand carved boxes, wall plaques, paddles and even cribbage boards. His work is meticulous and he uses both European and Native designs. (Phone: 250 557-4531)

Artist, Ernie Burnett carves beautiful cedar boxes

Ernie was exposed to wood carving and wood working by his father and grandfather. His Father, Ernie Sr., was a well-known woodcarver. His wood carving heritage goes back to England and this is evident in some of his designs. What I found most attractive were his carefully hewn boxes.

Since he uses found wood, there will be interesting colors and grains in his work. A visit to Ernie’s wood carving shop is a must-do when traveling the highway to Masset.

Tlell is known for the Edge of the World Music Festival and Tlell Fall Fair. It is mid-island and has some great hiking trails and scenic rocky beaches. There are some B&B's in the area.

Exploring Masset
Once we reached Masset, we visited the Co-op which is a great well-stocked grocery store (it has a rest room). We then traveled through the streets were marked in the Haida language on canoe shaped signs. The Haida people are friendly and helped us with directions and recommendations. You'll get a sense of Haida life as you travel slowly through the streets. At one home a man was sitting outside tending drying strips of salmon.

One special stop that you must take as you travel through Old Masset admiring the beautiful totem poles, is Sarah’s Haida Arts and Jewelry. While Sarah is not Haida, her shop is full of carefully selected Haida jewelry, cedar baskets and hats, books on local art and collectible carvings.

Sarah's Haida Arts is located in a longhouse.

Sarah is highly knowledgeable about Haida art and artists. She purchases from the locals in town and you will be ensured of authenticity when you purchase from her. She also has a great selection of books about the local art, history and culture. She is located at 387 Eagle Road and her phone is 250.626.5560. Her shop is in a scenic long house with beautiful totem in front.

Sarah has a wonderful selection of Haida arts and crafts.

If you are hungry after your journey, consider stopping in town for a sandwich. We found that restaurants come and go. We watched for where the locals dined and had a great hamburger. The locals can advise you on where to go… just ask.

If you decide to stay in Masset, there are fishing lodges that may have rooms. It is a fairly remote area so having a reservation ahead is recommended. There is a Vistors Center as you enter town. Places to stay in Masset.

This journey is an excellent day trip from Sandspit (which has an airport). You’ll cross to Graham Island by a quick 25 minute ferry ride to Skidegate and then turn right on the Yellowhead Highway.

Flying to Masset

From Vancouver B.C. you can fly direct to Masset's Municipal Airport (ZMT) with Pacific Coastal Airlines 1-800-663-2872. Located 3km from the village center. Taxi service and rental car pick-ups are available at the airport. Masset also features twice daily floatplane service to Prince Rupert with Inland Air  250-626-3225

More Information

Visiting Masset
Places to see Authentic Totem Poles
Map of Haida Gwaii

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Haida Gwaii: Visiting the Haida Heritage Centre on Graham Island

Haida Gwaii is formerly known as
The Queen Charlotte Islands

One way to access the cultural and natural marvels that are now known as Haida Gwaii is by taking a BC Ferry from Prince Rupert, British Columbia (on the mainland) to Skidegate. 

Once on Graham Island, a main attraction, and great starting point, is the Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay. This is a short scenic drive from the ferry landing.

The beautiful complex on the bay is an award-winning First Nations art and cultural tourism attraction. The complex consists of the Haida Gwaii Museum, two classrooms, the Performance House, Canoe House, Bill Reid Teaching Centre, the Carving House, the Haida Gwaii Musuem Gift Shop and the Kay Bistro.

I first encountered the Haida Heritage Centre after a long ferry ride. Docking early in the morning, we had to wait for the short ferry ride to Moresby Island and decided to take a drive along the water. 

Totem at Dawn

Just as dawn brought a new day to the island, we found the totems at the Centre beautifully lighted by the sun peeking through the early morning mist. It was a magical moment. I was eager to return and see the entire complex including the museum.

Hours vary by season:
June -  Monday to Saturday 10am - 6pm
Summer (July to August) - Sunday to Wednesday 10am to 6pm and Thursday to Saturday 10am to 8 pm
Winter (September to May) - Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm

The entrance fee ranges up to $15.00  (CDN)  for adults. It is well-worth it.

I visited in June and found many things going on. There was a huge ceremonial pole being carved that was destined to be raised at Gwaii Hanas, work on preserving the native languages was being done, tours were being given of the museum and the gift shop was well-stocked with Haida art.

I spent over an hour inside the museum and was entranced. It is beautifully laid out, anchored with totem poles and features a wonderful collection of Haida argillite. The museum is a great place to being your journey through the islands of Haida Gwaii as you will learn much about Haida culture and art.

New pole being carved at the Centre

After talking with the master carver about the new pole in the Carving House (traditional canoes were on display too), I decided to look for a piece of Haida art at the gift shop. They had argillite and silver jewelry, cedar weavings and cedar carved boxes, books and textiles. All items were authentic and were from local artisans.

When you go, consider a guided tour which will give you even more information about the Haida people and the offerings of the Heritage Centre.

More Information
Website
Plan Your Visit to Haida Gwaii
Haida Argillite
Cooling Off in Haida Gwaii

Noteworthy Restrooms: A Deep in Thought Place in the Woods

You never know what you will encounter on a day trip in Canada's remote Haida Gwaii. While vacationing in Sandspit on Moresby Island, we enjoyed rocky beaches, tide pools and daily sightings of eagles nesting, flying or feeding.

But there was more to see. Within less than an hour’s drive you can adventure through beautiful green forest via a logging road, explore rocky bays and then come to a lovely sandy beach.

This is Gray Bay, a place where you can swim, picnic and camp. It’s a remote park, an area preserved due to its natural beauty.

There is a 40 kilometer loop that will include this area but I found the trip to Gray Bay to be a short little trip for a picnic and walk on the beach if you just take the logging roads in this area.

Along the way, you’ll see interesting fisherman’s cabins and remote homes of some Haida, especially along the rivers and inlets.

It was in this area that I spied an outhouse showing that the home-owner had a sense of humor.

It was across the road from a ramshackle fisherman's cabin that had a huge note painted on the door - "Please Use Front Door."

You can only imagine what sort of person was out there in the woods running rampant with their sense of humor... and thoughts!

More
More of our Restroom Picks
Noteworthy Restrooms Pinterest Board

Fall in Haida Gwaii, Canada

It's an interesting time on Moresby Island. It's only mid-September. Yet, inns and fishing services are closing. Is it a secret to the world that it is warm here, people are wearing shorts and there are still Coho and Spring Salmon to be caught?

In the woods the mushroom hunters eagerly seek those yellow gold Chanterelles. Pounds of them are sold to the mushroom buyers destined for fine restaurants near and far. Those of us who are lucky enough to be here in this transitional season have them with our dinner.

The Eagles have headed away from the rocky beaches and gather at rivers where fish are going upstream to spawn. It is an eagle free-for-all after a heavy rain as the fish begin their arduous journey. In between rains you can see schools of Pink Salmon circling in the bays and under docks awaiting the start of their journey.

The BC Ferry schedules for travelers to and from the mainland are reduced. Once school is in session, there are fewer families on holiday to be transported.

Meanwhile for those fortunate enough to be in Haida Gwaii during this beautiful time will be surprised by the green gardens, abundant vegetables and great bird watching. By day you can bike the flat roads, go kayaking or enjoy a hike.  By evening you can relish and photograph the beautiful sunsets.

For those coming to Sandspit, you can easily find a room at this time of year. If you enjoy peace and quiet broken only by the lapping of the incoming tide, this will make for an ideal vacation.

Haida Gwaii Visitors Information

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Wordless Wednesday: Dawn on Haida Gwaii

Did the sun chase the fog or did the fog chase the sun on Haida Gwaii this morning?

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Arriving in Skidegate from Prince Rupert: The beauty of a Haida Gwaii Morning

Haida Heritage Centre
(photo copyright Elizabeth R Rose Photography)

One of the most memorable moments from my Haida Gwaii adventure was arriving via overnight BC Ferry to Skidegate. After a night of tossing and turning on a bunk in the cabin, I was pleased to see the dawn and anticipated the landing.

Once we disembarked, we had to wait for the Skidegate to Sandspit ferry so did a little local touring. It was early morning and the mist still hung in the trees. My first visit to the Haida Heritage Center took place when the museum was still closed. But a brief walk along the water and a view of a Haida Totem Pole in low light remains imprinted in my mind.

The early view of this totem brought me back to the history of the Haida. It was easy to imagine the people coming from their long houses down to the shore, perhaps to meet some visiting people in a canoe. Or perhaps it was a morning when only the sounds of eagles singing could be heard.

As the water lapped the shore, I took this photo. I have returned to "the world," but the peace of this first landing in Haida Gwaii remains in my memory and in my heart.

You can purchase prints of this photo online.

Discovering Gray Bay: A Haida Gwaii beach adventure

Fisherman's cabin in remote Moresby Island

While vacationing in Sandspit on Moresby Island, you’ll enjoy rocky beaches, tide pools and daily sightings of eagles nesting, flying or feeding.

But let’s say you want to explore another aspect of the island. Within less than an hour’s drive you can adventure through beautiful green forest via a logging road, explore rocky bays and then come to a lovely sandy beach. This is Gray Bay, a place where you can swim, picnic and camp. It’s a remote park, an area preserved due to its natural beauty.

The beauty of the Copper River.

Getting to Gray Bay
If you are in Sandspit, drive down School Road to Copper Bay Road which will lead you to the logging roads that take you to Gray Bay via Copper Bay. Once you reach the unpaved section of the road it is 21 kilometers to the bay. Be sure and have sufficient gas for the trip. Also, since the road is gravel and mud, don’t go during a downpour. Another bit of advice… be sure and bring bug repellent.

There is a 40 kilometer loop that will include this area but I found the trip to Gray Bay to be a short little trip for a picnic and walk on the beach if you just take the logging roads in this area.

Enjoy the Scenery

Copper Bay

Along the way, you’ll see interesting ramshackle fishermen’s cabins and remote homes of some Haida, especially along the rivers and inlets. A real treat is the part of the road that follows along the amazingly beautiful Copper River as it winds through the green forest. Be prepared, also, to see logged areas and watch for trucks as this is an active logging area.

From mid-September on, fishermen flock to the mouth of the Copper River to fish for Coho Salmon. Interestingly, the familiar Copper River Salmon are not from here, but from the Copper River in Alaska.

The beautiful forests you will see are alder, giant spruce and hemlock. On the forest floor you’ll find large furs and mossy growth on logs that have fallen after the strong winds of winter. In the woods are deer and bear.

Watch carefully for signs that will point you to the bays and, finally, the Provincial protected area. You’ll find pull outs with beautifully made log picnic tables. Follow the little paths through the short wooded area to the beach. Gray Bay is a crescent shaped gray sandy beach. Locals will tell you that in the summer the beach warms the water so it is actually a very pleasant swimming area.

Enjoy the sandy beach of Gray Bay at low tide

There are some interesting hiking trails. Not far from Gray Bay is the Secret Cove Trail and another trail starts from the south end of Gray Bay and leads to Cumshewa Head.

You can camp here but it is best to be an experienced camper who can handle the lack of amenities and the presence of bears.

More Information
Parks and Trails: Gray Bay
Moresby Island Camp Grounds
A Dog's Perspective of the trip to Gray Bay

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Eagles Galore in Haida Gwaii, British Columbia (photos)

Eagle picking up fish from the beach in Sandspit.

When visiting Alaska and Canada you’ll be amazed at the number of eagles you will see. These magnificent birds are found where there are large bodies of open water and tall trees for nesting and overlooking the beaches and water. 

We recently saw as many as 20 eagles feeding together on the beach at Sandspit in British Columbia’s Haida Gwaii.

Eagles feed at low tide and watched for offerings from the fishing boats and beachside homes. They are primarily fish eaters.

According to an article on Wikipedia, The Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus; hali = salt, aeetus = eagle, leuco = white, cephalis = head) is a bird of prey found in North America. A sea eagle, it has two known sub-species and forms a species pair with the White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla). Its range includes most of Canada and Alaska, all of the contiguous United States, and northern Mexico. It is found near large bodies of open water with an abundant food supply and old-growth trees for nesting.

Eagle Nest

Eagles build the largest nest of any North American bird and will mate and nest at age 4-5 years of age. You’ll see young with spotted brown feathers and dark beaks. The older they are, the more yellow their beaks.

Young eagles at low tide

They are wary of people and will take flight if you get too close, but with a simple telephoto lens you can get some great photos!

Eagles and eagle feathers, important in many cultures, are protected.

Books on Eagles

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography