Showing posts with label northern new mexico. Show all posts
Showing posts with label northern new mexico. Show all posts

Monday, December 28, 2015

Visiting Taos Pueblo – World Heritage Site in New Mexico

Taos Pueblo is a must-see on your visit to northern New Mexico. Located just outside the main tourism area of modern Taos, it is the largest surviving multi-storied Pueblo structure in the United States. It is an amazing place and an important stop when you tour the area.

Taos Pueblo has been designated a National Historic Landmark.  Taos Pueblo is also on the United Nations World Heritage List.

History of Taos
Taos Pueblo is the northernmost of the nineteen Indian Pueblos. It is still owned by Pueblo families, some of whom live in the multi-story building, bake their bread in the hornos and farm in the valley. The Pueblo you will see on your visit was reportedly built around 1350, although the Taos people claim that they have always been settled in the valley.

When you visit New Mexico it is important to know a little history. Pay special attention to The Pueblo Revolt. The Pueblo people were mistreated by the Spanish and their spiritual practices forbidden. They collectively made the decision to revolt against the Spanish.  The Pueblo Revolt of 1680 was planned at Taos Pueblo. The revolt is an amazing story of determination and creative communication between the Pueblo peoples across New Mexico.

A runner coordinated efforts between the Pueblos who then revolted against the Spanish as a united effort. Spanish settlers fled to Santa Fe and Isleta Pueblo, one of the few Pueblos that did not participate in the revolt. The Puebloans then attacked the Governor’s Palace in Santa Fe driving the Spanish out of the city.

By the end of the century, however, the Spanish had re-conquered the Pueblos. Today, you will see certain pueblos take the step to return to their original names, giving up the Spanish names that were originally forced on them. The revolt continues in this small way.

Visiting Taos Pueblo
The Pueblo is generally open to visitors Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m and Sunday 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m, except when tribal rituals require closing the Pueblo. Late winter to early Spring the Pueblo closes for about ten weeks. The pueblo recommends that you call ahead if you’ll be visiting during this time. 505.758.1028.

Tourist Fees
Adult admission: $16 per person
Senior Rate: $14 per person
Students (11 and up, includes college with ID) $14 per person
Group Rate (8 or more Adults): $14 per person
Children 10 and under: Free

Camera Fees
Camera, cell phone and video fee may apply

You can take a self-guided walking tour with a map. Everything you will want to see, and are allowed to see, is around the main plaza.  

You can also go with a guide. Ask at the Visitor’s Building. The guides are usually available by 9 a.m. The 30 minute guided walking tours operate on a gratuity basis. No reservations are required for the tour and I highly encourage the tours as they are very informative and provide a source of income for the guides.

Taos Pueblo Things to See
I never cease to be amazed at the construction and beauty of the multi-story Pueblo buildings. You’ll recognize the architecture as artists across the United States have painted these beautiful buildings.

The beautiful San Geronimo Chapel is open to visitors and the outside is often photographed. You are not allowed to photograph the inside.

Visit the shops around the plaza. They are clearly marked. Each shop is also a part of the Pueblo building and is owned, as a home, by a family. The insides are all different. Some are just like they have always been and some have been modernized.

When you visit the shops look for items that are unique to Taos Pueblo. They are known for their micaceous pottery which has flecks of shiny mica in it. They are also known for their hide drums.

If you arrive in the morning, consider making a breakfast of one of the pastries baked in a horno oven. Freshly baked turnovers and breads are made by the locals and sold outside their homes.

Throughout the year, according to the ceremonial calendar, you may see some of the religious dances. If you happen to be at Taos Pueblo on one of these days, you will encounter a very special opportunity. Calendar of Events

Pueblo Etiquette
Taos Pueblo has rules which are typical of most pueblos. It is important to refrain from photography of people without permission. If there is a sign that tells you not to enter, respect the sign. This is a living pueblo with families residing there and ceremonial activity taking place.

There are times when the pueblo is closed and so it is always useful to call ahead.
Restrooms are at the Visitors Center so please do not ask to use facilities elsewhere.

How to Get to Taos Pueblo From Santa Fe:
The Taos Pueblo is approximately a one and a half hour drive north from central Santa Fe. Ask for directions to Highway 285. It is an absolutely beautiful drive. Follow Highway 285 for approximately 23 miles. Then turn onto Highway 68 and follow for 45 miles to the north. Highway 68 becomes Paseo del Pueblo Sur in Taos. Continue through the center of town. 1 mile from center of town, turn Right onto Veteran’s Highway and follow to the end at Taos Pueblo. Map

More Information

Photo Credit: Elizabeth R. Rose

Friday, April 3, 2015

Visiting the Villages of Northern New Mexico: Chimayo for art, scenery and faith

Northern New Mexico is scenic, historic and a destination for people of faith. Taking a day trip from Santa Fe will bring you to the interesting villages and churches as well as beautiful scenery.

Visit the picturesque village of Chimayo and you will be taken back to the time of the colonization of northern New Mexico by the Spanish in 1610. Chimayo, a historic village in the foothills of the Sangre de Christo Mountains, is known for the Chapel or Shrine, the Santuario de Chimayo, visited by pilgrims seeking benefit from the healing powers and for the Chimayo artisans and weavers of the area. Chimayo is not all that far from Santa Fe and I highly recommend a drive through the beautiful countryside to visit this quaint and colorful village.

Santuario de Chimayo (the Chapel or Shrine)

What a beautiful photo opportunity! The chapel, with it's adobe walls, wooden crosses and heirloom gardens is beautiful. But take a moment to reflect on what you will see. As you approach the chapel from the lower parking lot you will see a chain link fence dotted with makeshift crosses. Go a little further and you will see a shrine with little baby shoes and rosaries. You'll find out that this is an usual place with a powerful draw for the faithful who leave these momentos.

The church was originally built in 1814 as private family chapel for the Abeyta family. The chapel is built in the traditional adobe style. The ceiling is lined with large vigas cut from the forest nearby.

Santeros (carvers of religious figures) were hired to paint altar screens and figures which you can see today inside the chapel. Remember that this is a quiet place of reflection and prayer and that no cameras are allowed within the chapel.

Enjoy the religious carvings and art and make your way to the altar. What is very unusual and is a draw for both pilgrims and tourists is the room to the left of the altar. You will see religious pictures, photographs brought by the faithful and a figure of El Nino, the child Jesus, as well as crutches and other evidence of those who have come to this special place. This is a place of healing. Be sure and enter the small room to the right of this entrance. There are many who believe that the earth in this room holds magical healing properties. Hundreds of visitors come to this room carrying bags and small containers. In the middle of the room is a circle filled with soft reddish dirt (El Posito, the "sacred sand pit"). Visitors take a trowel and fill their containers with the dirt to take back to their homes, their families, and those who would benefit from it's healing properties.

When you visit the chapel, you will find the interior noticeably peaceful. Take a moment to sit and reflect on the history, the simple beauty, and the spiritual journey that many faithful make in search of healing. You too, may experience something special in this beautiful place of worship.

During Holy Week, before Easter, pilgrims can be seen walking to Chimayo, some carrying crosses.

The Village of Chimayo

When you finish visiting the chapel, climb the short hill and walk the little streets of the village. You'll notice the water rushing along in the narrow acequia (irrigation canal) typical of villages and ranches founded by the Spanish. There are a few places to get something to eat and a gallery or two. All are worthy of a photo as they are in historic adobes and are very picturesque.

I enjoyed the historic Vigil Store (El Potrero Trading Post). The store was established 1921 and remains in the family. You can purchase religious objects, tinware, local wood carvings or a soft drink. It is a good place to find locally made religious gifts.

The Weaving Traditions of Chimayo

Chimayó is known for the weaving traditions of the Ortega and Trujillo families, who have been
weaving in the early Spanish tradition since the 1700's. Their work differs from that of the Navajo weavers although the artists admit that there has been sharing of styles and materials. Their work is termed, "Rio Grande" style. Chimayo weaving is part of this tradition. I have visited both workshops and noted that they were part of the New Mexico Fiber Arts Trail

Heirloom Chile

When I was in the Vigil Store in Chimayo I notices people buying packets of dried chili. I soon found out that the town is famous for its heirloom chile (capsicum Annum Chimayo.) The Chimayo Chile Project works with local farmers, and artists in order to preserve the native strain of chile and to keep the cultural assets alive in the community. More on Chimayo Chile.

When You Go

Chapel Hours: October - April, 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM. June - September 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM. See the chapel website for more information and times when mass is celebrated.

Location: Chimayó is located 40 miles south of Taos and 24 miles northeast of Santa Fe, and about ten miles east of Espanola on highway 76. Map

Pilgrimages to the Churches of Northern NM

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography

Saturday, November 3, 2012

Head to Santa Fe for the 2012 Winter Markets



Winter Spanish Market (Copyright: Elizabeth R. Rose)

Big draws for Santa Fe are the colorful markets held around the town's main plaza. As the leaves turn golden, the Plaza gets more quiet. And then, with the beginning of winter, the festivals start once again. But at this time they are moved inside.

It's cold outside and the markets and shows will continue in Santa Fe, New Mexico. We always look forward to the winter markets held inside. There are fewer artists than the events held on the historic Plaza, but you'll have a great chance to visit with the artists and do some holiday shopping in a more leisurely and comfortable atmosphere.

Taking place December 1-2, 2012 the Winter Spanish Market showcases traditional Spanish colonial arts and has expanded this year by adding several new events. Luncheon with the Artists on Wednesday, November 30 is an opportunity to enjoy lunch with a Spanish Market artist and learn more about them and their work; tickets are available for $60.

The market will open at the Santa Fe Convention Center for the first time on Friday night, December 2, from 6:00 to 9:00 with the WinterNite party, featuring food and music along with the artists selling their work. The market runs for two full days December 3 and 4 and features pieces by 100 Hispanic artists.

Other highlights of the weekend include a Holiday Home Tour and a Traditional Christmas Tea at the Hotel Saint Francis. More Information.

Another winter market that everyone looks forward to is the SWAIA Winter Indian Market. This market is SWAIA's Annual Holiday Native arts show held during Thanksgiving weekend (November 24-25, 2012) at the Santa Fe Convention Center. 

You'll have the chance to visit with 150 Native artists. Six award-winning artist demonstrators including jewelers Vernon Haskie and Allen Aragon, potters Erik Fender and Ulysses Reid, painter Ryan Lee Smith, and weaver Lola Cody will be demonstrating their art at the Santa Fe Convention Center.

As entertainment, enjoy entrancing flute music and a contemporary take on traditional story telling.
Admission to the event is $5.00. More Information.

The festivals of Santa Fe are excellent opportunities to purchase unique holiday gifts.

Book your Santa Fe Hotel Online and Save

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

In Love with Northern New Mexico: Villages, Folk Art and Mountains


When you go to New Mexico, you must travel to Santa Fe and on to the mountain villages of northern New Mexico. Many of the towns and farms were original Spanish land grants and many of the original families have descendants living there.
Georgia O'Keeffe's Ghost Ranch
When you travel the winding roads of northern New Mexico you will find surprises at every turn. With mountain views, clear blue skies and old adobe churches, the vistas will keep you entranced and pulling out your camera to capture the beauty. But you will also find surprises. Northern New Mexico is home to many artists ranging from traditional carvers to world class artists who have escaped from such art-rich areas as New York and southern California. I love northern New Mexico. Here are some highlights that may just get you thinking about a trip to this beautiful, often untouched area of the United States. 

Abiquiu

Georgia O'Keeffe fell in love with the Abiquiu area and you will too. The verdant valleys and fascinating rock formations captured her artistic interest. You can visit Ghost Ranch and take a Georgia O'Keefe "Landscape Tour" to see where she painted. By appointment, you can tour her Abiquiu home. It is simple adobe, traditional for the area. Her studio and home has been left much as it was when she lived there.  Abiquiu can be reached by driving north from Santa Fe to Espanola. Follow signs to Highway 84 to Chama. More on Georgia O'Keeffe's New Mexico.

Fun at Elkhorn Lodge in Chama

Chama

The drive to Chama via Abiquiu is a beautiful one, especially in the fall. Whether you want to ride the Cumbres and Toltec excursion train and see golden aspens or relax at the ElkhornLodge and enjoy the sounds of the river, you'll enjoy a getaway to the Chama area. More on Chama.

Santuario de Chimayo

Chimayo

The main draw to the village of Chimayo is the world-famous Santuario de Chimayo, a fascinating little chapel where miracles are said to occur. At Easter, Chimayo becomes a destination for the faithful. The Good Friday procession, the Easter Pilgrimage, is an amazing sight. During Holy Week thousands of pilgrims journey to Santuario de Chimayó.  They leave from their homes, or their cars parked on the roadside, to walk 10, 20, 30, or even 100 miles to reach Chimayo.

Chimayo is also home to traditional weavers who have been there for many generations. Their art is found on walls of homes, vests and coats, and even on tables as runners and placemats.  You'll have the opportunity to visit weavers' studios. We drove down a country path, parked next to an orchard and enjoyed visiting the studio of Irvin Trujillo and his wife, Lisa (Centinela Traditional Arts). 

Ortega's Weaving Shop in Chimayo
Irvin, a seventh-generation weaver, descended from Don Gabriel Ortega, the first Ortega in Chimayo. The Trujillos have been in the area since the latter part of the 18th Century. Weaving has been an important part of Chimayo history and economy since the early 19th century. 

Another great stop is Ortega's weaving shop. Ortega's is probably the best-known weaving shop in the area. Many visitors don't realize that the original family homestead is part of the current building complex.

In the early 1900s the Ortega family opened a general store on the site. They sold weavings as well as everyday items. As more people discovered Santa Fe and the beautiful traditions of New Mexico, the demand for the weavings increased and today, the once general store, sells only the Ortega weavings along with area jewelry and pottery. The business has evolved so that the Ortegas now employ other local weavers to weave garments with their designs.

Truchas Church

High Road to Taos

One of the best ways to experience northern New Mexico is to drive the High Road to Taos. You'll be following Highway 76 most of the way. Map

On the High Road you'll encounter mission churches, little villages, farms and art studios. One of the best times to drive the High Road is in September during the High Road Art Tour. Many of the destinations I am highlighting in this article are along the High Road.

Getting to the High Road from Santa Fe (one way): Coming from Santa Fe and heading north on Hwy. 285/84 turn right (east) onto SR 503. Turn left (north) onto SR 98 (520). Turn right (east) onto SR 76. Continue along SR 76. Turn right (east) on to SR 75 in Penasco. Continue along SR 75. Turn left (north) on to SR 518 and continue along SR 518. The byway ends in Rancho de Taos where SR 518 junctions with SR 68.

Ortiz Carving Shop

Cordova Wood Carvers

If you travel the High Road to Taos, you'll leave Chimayo and travel higher and see a sign for Cordova. Head down into the valley to enjoy this traditional village and their traditional wood carving craft. There are two main shops that are usually open. First, you will come to the shop and home of Sabinita Lopez Ortiz. Follow the sign to the side of the home and a family member will greet you. Once in the shop, you will be wowed by the beautiful carvings done by this family. My favorites are the Nativity scenes.

Farther up the little road, you will find a sign to Gloria's shop. Follow the road up to her home and shop and ring the bell. Hopefully someone will be home so you can enjoy her shop, her award-winning carvings and, perhaps, buy a piece or two to take home.

Leaving Cordova and returning to the main road will put you back on the High Road to Taos. Truchas will be your next stop.

Truchas Buildings

Truchas

Truchas (Spanish for trout) will surprise you. It is a little village of, perhaps, 1,000 people. The inhabitants seem equally divided between local land grant families and accomplished artists. They live amicably together in a beautiful, untouched, village on the side of a valley with views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

You can visit galleries, photograph the quaint adobe homes and church and walk along the road that will make you feel as though you are hundreds of miles from civilization as we know it. Don't be surprised if a little herd of goats (and one sheep) amble down the road in search of a patch of green to nibble on.

Low Road to Taos (The Rio Grande Gorge)

Taos Gorge
Sometimes in the high desert, you crave rushing water. And a drive along the Low Road to Taos will provide you with just that. The stretch of NM 68 from Espanola to Taos will take you through one of the most scenic areas of northern New Mexico. The Rio Grande Gorge is a deep volcanic canyon running through the rugged high desert of northern New Mexico.

You'll encounter white water rafters and kayakers as you travel. Boating within the Recreation Area can be extremely hazardous. All boaters must register or obtain a permit at the Visitor Center or Little Arsenic Trailhead prior to launching. (BLM). There are outfitters in the Taos/Pilar area.

You'll also find beautiful vistas, a winery or two and fruit stands where you can pick up some fresh fruit from the local orchards.

More Information on Northern New Mexico

New Mexico Tourism
Discovering Santa Fe and New Mexico

Photography copyright: Elizabeth Rose Photography